So after failing twice using Christine's recipes (sightly modified at times) for hot cross buns, I decided to go and create my own recipe like I usually do - of course, using what I've learnt in food chemistry and food science.
If
only someone could research and publish in a proper scientific journal on the
65°C / Tangzhong / Water Roux. Anyhoo, putting away my scientific side...
So,
started googling, found a few interesting articles about Tangzhong, which is
apparently also called 'Water Roux'. Also some confusion about the origins of
this method - supposed to have originated from Yvonne Chen, who some believe
are Chinese, whilst others believe is Japanese. I wonder Yvonne would say. Or
is this another great example of how people just can't tell the difference
between Chinese and Japanese? *Sigh*. 'Chen' to me sounds like a pretty typical
Chinese name, not sure how the Hiragana (Japanese) would work for 'Chen', there
is just no sound for 'che'...unless its 'chi' + little 'e', I guess.
Maybe she's a halfie. Anyway. Probably best if I had bought her book in HK and read her biography if there was one in the inner cover of the book.
Ok,
the interesting part - new recipe creation!! Some sites said tangzhong must be
in 1:5, bread flour: liquid ratio (milk and/or water). Other sites had 1:3,
plain/all purpose flour: liquid ratio (milk and/or water). So me being me -
that is dietitian and rather mathematical and scientific about my food - i
wanted to compare the amount of protein (and so then assuming the gluten
content) in bread flour used in ratio 1:5 versus the amount of protein in the
plain/all purpose flour type of recipe. Since all sources so far have said that
its because that gluten best absrbs moisture at 65°C, i assume that as long as
you have the same amount of gluten that's effectively absorbed moisture at this
65°C in your recipe then whether you use bread flour or plain/all purpose flour
wouldn't matter... right?
So
anyway.
Protein
content in bread flour - typically 13 - 14%
Protein
content in plain/all purpose flour - 10% (Coles smart buy, anyway) I know this
varies a lot between brands. E.g White wings - perhaps due to it being a
'branded' flour, and rather a lot more expensive than generic supermaket
brands, their regular white plain flour is like.. 12% protein from memory.
Which means white wings plain is probably nearly as good as being sold as a
bread flour.
All
that aside.
Recipes
somehow always state to use only half the mixture made. (1 cup flour = 150g)
Bread
flour recipe called for 1/2 cup bread flour for 2.5 cup liquid.. (75g x 13-14%
)/2 = 4.8g protein
Plain
flour recipe called for 1/3 cup plain flour for 1 cup liquid.. (50g x 10%)/2 =
2.5g
Both
recipes were going to use 4 cups of their respective flours.
Theoretically,
this means that bread flour recipe should result in a
softer/lighter/fluffier/longer lasting bread.... but I was hopeful. And also, I
had no bread flour on hand. Hence, decided that I wanted to use plain flour
recipe.
BUT.
Me being me again, I had not 1/3c measuring cups at home!!
So I
ended up using 1/4 cup with plain flour - the only cup measure I have at
home. And so i made the Tangzhong as a 1:2 ratio. OR 1:1:1 = plain flour: cold
water: cold soy milk. (1/4 cup of each). but instead of using just half of the
Tangzhong made, I used the whole lot. this means that, the amount of protein in
the Tangzhong was... 150g/4 = 37.5g plain flour x 10% = 3.75g protein......
This
is right in between..!!! (4.8g vs 2.5g) what a great compromise, and I didn’t
even mean to do it.
So recipe
time. I dont have much time to continue writing as much as I’d like to recall
my entire experience and through processes and justification using food chem in
making this recipe. At least I can be proud to say that this is truly an original
recipe that works.
And it’s
quite clear that i shop at Coles. Hate their ads, but 'you know, saving money
is never annoying'. ARGH.. I'm turning into a poster girl for Coles... This is
exactly what they want. NOOOooo...
Hot Cross Buns (Tangzhong / Water Roux) recipe
For those
with no bread machine, no mixmaster/kitchenaid, no bread flour, who typically
have no time except a weekend afternoon to spare.
Made
by hand & from scratch
Makes: 12 "mini" hot cross buns as you
would see in Coles and Woolworths.
But
really, if compared to Australian Guide to Healthy eating, it would be 12 medium
sized hot cross buns
Time: Total start to finish 4 - 5hours - because
it so cold and the dough took a long time to prove. Would have about 1 - 1.5
hours to do your own thing when waiting between steps. Probably less time if
making it in the middle of summer.
Utensils/Materials:
Saucepan
/ stove
Clean
hands & lots of arm muscle. Forget the mix master, especially if just a
small bench top one e.g. Sunbeam, its faster using elbow grease.
Clean
bench for kneeding
A
warm, dry place (e.g. sunny place, warm stove, under laptop that heats up
excessively…)
Ingredients:
Tangzhong
/ Water roux:
1/4
cup Coles Smart buy Plain flour
1/4
cup room temp, cold water
1/4
cup Coles lite soy milk
Yeast
activation mixture
~125ml
hot water - boiled and from thermos.
~125ml
Coles lite soy milk, straight from fridge (cold, to even out the temperature of
the hot water and not kill the yeast with the heat)
1 pkt
/ 7g Tandaco dry yeast
Dry
ingredients:
2.5
cup Coles Plain flour - blue bag. unbleached, triple sifted. Protein 10.9%
4
heaped tsp white sugar - Coles smart buy, can adjust according to taste/liking
for sweetness
1/2
tsp salt - Coles Smart buy iodised
Sprinkling
of each of: (I assume it would be ~1/4 tsp)
Allspice
powder
Cinnamon
powder (I probably put more than 1/4 tsp because I love cinnamon)
Nutmeg
powder
Supposed
to put cardamom powder and ginger powder, or “mixed spice” powder, but I don’t
have it!
Wet
ingredients:
1
large Egg, whisked. From Box of a dozen at 700g
1 tb
extra virgin olive oil (most other recipes call for butter. The fat/oil’s role
in bread making is for flavour, and I can’t see why we should encourage people
to make it a bread that’s higher in saturated fat than it needs to be. This is
a perfect example of replacing saturated for monounsaturated fat. Although, you
still shouldn’t be eating hot cross buns for health reasons, apart from mental
health reasons.)
Additions:
~1 cup
total of additions will give a bun that has whatever additions in every bite of
the bun! Adjust amount to liking of course.
·
Sultanas
·
Craisins
·
Chocolate
chips
·
Other
interesting ideas? Woolworths does toffee and caramel. I’ve always dreamed of
adding chai powder or instant coffe to dry ingredients then choc chips later…
like a mocha hot cross bun. Would marshmallows work? Jelly babies? Pop rocks/Nerds?
The Cross:
2tb +
1 tsp Plain flour
3tb Fridge-chilled
cold water (stops it from going all elastic-y and sticky compared with warmish/room
temp water)
(?
corn flour)
The Glaze:
2 tb white
sugar
3 tb boiling
water
Method
Make the Tangzhong / Water Roux
Note: This
recipe uses ALL the Tangzhong at once whereas most other recipes call for only ½
the Tangzhong mixture to be used. I can’t see the logic in saving half for a
later day… I’m too busy to be at home all the time baking bread.
1. In a saucepan, add the liquids, then
sprinkle in the flour to try get as minimal lumps as possible. Stir until lump
free.
2. Cook on low heat & small gas top, stirring
or whisking continuously. A small diameter whisk is particularly effective.
When you see Tangzhong has thickened to the point where you can see lines being
formed (i.e. as you stir, you see the path of your stirring, and hence
revealing the bottle of the saucepan in the lines), take off heat put into a
bowl immediately. It takes less than 2 minutes to do this and the thickness of
the Tangzhong and increase very quickly and suddenly, so be vigilant (and also
use low heat!)
3. Put cling wrap against surface of Tangzhong
to prevent it from drying out
If
using immediately: Set aside for at least 30 min – 1hr to let the gluten rest
and cool down to room temperature. Go and do what you like around the house for
1 hour.
If using
later: Store in fridge for up to 2 – 3 days. Don’t use if it’s turned grey. Let
it get back to room temperature before using it.
Activate the yeast
What I call
“lazy recipes” will call for you to add yeast directly in with the dry
ingredients, but I found that this doesn’t work as well. And it’s also not the traditional
way of using dry yeast. AND you never know if your yeast are actually active
and alive and working unless you actually do these steps.
1. In a mug/jug (400ml), put in sugar then hot
water. Stir to dissolve.
2. Then add cold milk. Check to make sure the
liquid isn’t too hot, or it’ll kill the yeast. It should feel luke warm and
quite comfortable to touch, and would be nice temperature to take a bath in (30
– 37C)
3. Add yeast to the liquid, and give a quick
stir to make sure all yeast is in contact with the liquid
4. Let stand for 5 – 10 minutes or until
frothy. In the meantime, prepare the dough.
Prepare the dough
1. In a separate small bowl, whisk the egg and
oil until well combined. Set aside ready to be used.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine all dry
ingredients together. Mix well with a wooden spoon or other similar utensil.
3. Create a well in the centre of the dry ingredients.
Add all the Tangzhong and frothy yeast mixture (a bit a time with mixing in
between).
4. Then add the egg/oil mixture. Keep mixing
with wooden spoon, later knead with hands to form a smooth, pliable ball of
dough. Add little bits of milk or flour to adjust the dough. It should come together
as a soft, ball, just short of sticky. Most of the ball should not be sticking
to your hands.
5. Take the dough to a clean, floured surface
to knead for a total 15 mins (If you’re weak like me. Other sources range from
5 – 15 minutes). Be careful not to add too much flour to working surface, or
you’ll need to add more milk/water. Kneading ‘develops the gluten’, which
basically means you are physically restructuring and aligning the gluten
strands in the dough so that they will be capable of trapping the gasses that
the yeast produces. The gasses make the bread rise; make the bread bouncy (i.e.
when you press on it, it’ll bound back to shape before).
6. Ideally, do and pass the Window Test. (see
below) I have never passed this test when kneading by hand. Not sure if it’s my
low gluten flour, or my lack of arm muscle and patience to get it to that
point.
7. Oil (brush or spray) a bowl - (preferably with
a large opening so the dough has plenty of space to rise). Roll the dough into
a nice smooth ball and place in the bowl. Spray the top of the dough with oil,
or turn the dough so the top surface is also greased. Cover tightly with cling wrap
or a warm, moist tea towel.
8. FIRST PROOVE: Leave in a warm place until dough
is double in size. ~1.5 hrs for me on a 19°C day!
9. In between this time, prepare a baking tray
(~23cm x 18 cm). Grease the tray, add baking paper, then grease the basking
paper surface again (especially if using cheapo Coles baking paper. Would
definitely be trying Glad Bake baking paper next time seeing as how stuck my
buns were to Coles Baking paper)
Window Test:
1. Pinch off a piece of dough the size of your
fist
2. Using both hands, grasp opposite
sides of the piece of dough with your fingertips.
3. Slowly
pull your hands apart and stretch the dough by approx 3 - 5cm.
4. The
dough should look like a window with a thin membrane in the centre.
STOP
KNEADING: If the dough forms a window-like membrane and stretches
without breaking.
KEEP KNEADING: If the dough doesn't stretch easily and tears.
without breaking.
KEEP KNEADING: If the dough doesn't stretch easily and tears.
Make the buns
So the
dough has now doubled in size.
1. Preheat the oven at 200°C, or coordinate as
you anticipate to finis
2. Punch down the dough, and knead for 1 – 2 minutes
in the bowl or on the bench
3. Add any additions e.g. sultanas or choc
chips.
4. Knead for another 10 mins (if you’re weak
like me). Other sources say 5 – 10 minutes. Or knead until you’re satisfied
that you’ve incorporated all sultanas/choc chips
5. Roll into a large sausage shape. Cut to
divide into 12 equal portions.
6. To really develop the gluten further, use
the knead each ball before forming into desired shape. For me, hot cross buns
are rolled into a sphere then + 1 – 2 rolls as an oblong. Ends up like a nice
oval
7. Place on the greased tray. Cover with cling
wrap. Leave in a warm place for 10 – 15 minutes or until risen slightly.
Just about to go into the oven |
Bake the buns
It’s really
important in this section to get the temperature and timing right, especially as
this recipe calls for plain flour and not bread flour. The higher temperature
at the start is aimed to make the buns rise as quickly as possible, form a crust
and hence set in its final shape and brown the surface. Since plain flour is
relatively lower in gluten, using a lower temperature means the bread will rise
slowly, brown and eventually set in its final shape – after it has released all
the gases because there wasn’t enough gluten strands in the plain flour to hold
it in. Hence, this would result in a product that rose when in the oven, but
collapsed with cooled later.
The
lower temperature after 10 mins is to actually cook the inside of the bun, so you’re
not eating raw dough.
1. Preheat oven to 200°C. Use top grill/heat
and fan forced
2. Bake for 10 minutes in the centre shelf. In
the meantime prepare the Cross mixture. (See below)
3. Turn down to 160 – 180°C after the first 10
minutes. Adjust according to the amount of browning that’s already happened.
4. Take out the whole tray of buns. Draw
crosses across all the buns.
5. Bake for another 10 – 15 minutes, or until a
knife comes out clean at 160 – 180°C.
6. Serve with a strong cup of tea and good
company! Forget the butter, margarine, jam and other spreads. This hot cross
bun is delicious just by itself!
The cross
1. In a small bowl, combine flour and water.
Some recipes also call for sugar, but I don’t see the point in adding more
calories.
2. Mix with a spoon until smooth.
3. Adjust thickness as required with more water
or flour (? Corn flour)
4. Put into a piping bag or a zip lock bag,
later snipping off a corner to pipe.
5. Keep in fridge until ready to use
The Glaze
1.
In a
small bowl/mug, melt the sugar with boiling water.
2.
Microwave
the mixture to get it hotter if needed
3.
Use a
pastry brush to glaze the buns immediately when out of the oven. In my case, I didn’t
have a pastry brush, so I used clean paper towel instead, worked a treat.
So fresh out the oven, I haven't even tried one yet! |
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